Head Space Daily Words...

From the hipster in PVC slip on shoes, flash watch shouting out from his wrist; to the woman in the black jeans with cut out knees, gaze locked firmly ahead. From the guy on my right with the stale smoky breath, transfixed by his bottle of pop; to the oblivious lady with orange trimmed Tigers, lost deep in her Kent Haruf book. Commuters, I salute you.

Head Space Daily Image...

PVC slip ons and orange trimmed Tigers...

Head Space Daily Tune...

Donald Byrd's Slow Drag album was accompanying me on this particular journey...

Donald Byrd - Book's Bossa

Head Space Daily Words...

It is a couple of weekends since the Green Man festival but it has taken me a little while to find the time to write these words. Green Man is the only time of year that I wear wellington boots and have a pint of Growler Ale permanently attached to my hand from 2PM, so it has a special place in my heart. We experienced another flooded tent, another euphoric ending and another all round great experience. The reason why we trudge through the mud and indulge the Welsh valley weather with its hide and seek sunshine and showers, is that we are looking for the shared excitement that comes through watching live music with a large group of like minded people. We are searching for moments of euphoria.

From the mesmerizing voice and deep, trembling bass of James Blake, to the uplifting Malian rock of Songhoy Blues, these euphoric experiences take on different emotional forms. The audience is collectively transfixed by James Blake and with Songhoy, we are responding with united movement.

The rain came down in torrents on Friday night and due to a slight technical error when we put our tent up, water seeped through the canvas and settled in a trough around the edge of the inside of the tent. The majority of my clothes were wringing wet and if I hadn’t packed a spare pair of jeans as an after thought, Saturday would have been spent in my pants, which wouldn’t have been pleasant for anyone.

Our group was missing one family this year but it had still risen from six families to seven and we were located in the same patch as 2015, opposite the Hurly Burly café, perfect for an early morning coffee and a bacon butty (see HSD Image.) Once set up for the day, a journey of musical discovery awaits.

Back to Friday and the first big performance for me came in the Far Out tent from jazz/soul innovator Kamasi Washington, whose album The Epic has been a big part of my life this year. His performance was unfortunately held up for half an hour due to sound problems, which were never fully resolved but he rose above it and it was a joy to see such talented musicians close up, with his tremendous band and vocalist Patricia Quinn firing on all cylinders. This is unbelievable soul affirming music.

We left the Far Out tent to be greeted by a double rainbow casting its spell over the glorious valley (see HSD Image.) Kamasi really can work wonders!! 

Later that evening was White Denim who were tight musically, a lot of fun and whose singer, with his vocal pitch, took their sound way beyond classic rock and I was impressed.

Coming hot on the heels of White Denim was James Blake himself. I first saw him several years ago at Pancras Old Church when the first album was being released and his immaculately fractured voice blew my mind. It was my wife’s turn to watch Mr Blake this time, whilst I took our youngest son back to base to get some kip, although I did hear the first four tracks and that voice and rumbling bass was working its magic. Had I seen the entire set, James Blake would have scored high on the euphoria meter.

A rainy night and flooded tent was to follow but our spirits were not to be dampened and it was onwards and upwards.

Our first gig on Saturday was Cate Le Bon, in the rain, on The Mountain Stage. Cate is a little different, an acquired taste, yet a taste that I very much like. Her album Crab Day has been a favourite of mine this year. There are times when your listening patterns need to be broken and reset and I find that a spin of Crab Day is like sniffing smelling salts and it snaps me back into a different musical path. Miss Le Bon is most definitely on my agenda to see when she next tours.

Later that evening, as the rain continued to fall, we passed through The Walled Garden where The Magnetic North and Hannah Peel were performing. Their Orkney Islands album from a few years back was very impressive but unfortunately I was too cold and wet to fully appreciate the music. I needed to be inside, warming up.

That moment came when we walked back up to Far Out to see Jagwar Ma. This was just what the doctor ordered. Dance music - arms in the air style, with a guitar thrown in - traditionally known as indie dance. The tracks all sounded familiar, although I had only heard one or two of them before. One of the tunes had an introduction reminiscent of a Beats International song and many others reminded me of something else which I couldn’t quite put my finger on. It was so 1990. There was even a guy behind me in a Reni hat dancing like a total Madchester throw back. Jagwar Ma’s set was great and a high scorer on the euphoria meter. I would like to buy their last album but it is currently out of press. Come on boys, re-issue please!!

On the way back through the Mountain Stage crowd I bumped into some of the guys from our group and we watched Laura Marling together. Laura was pleasant. Unfortunately, she did nothing to really move me. Her slot was wrong in my view. It felt like it needed a White Denim or a band who could really lift it up. That is largely down to the weather though. A balmy summers night could have been perfect for Laura Marling. Does Green Man ever have those?

Sunday promised more rain, which never actually materialised. Meteorologically, the weekend was an exact replica of 2015. After taking down the tent and packing up in the morning, and following a final coffee and butty at the Hurly Burly, the day’s entertainment began.

Our first major show was Songhoy Blues. This was the third time I have seen them and as always, they exuded joyful brilliance, with the crowd becoming very involved. The guitarist is sensational and musically they are well tight with their Afro-bluesy, Malian-rock sound. They know how to work a crowd and are properly uplifting. This was my eldest son's favourite performance of Green Man. When they are next in London maybe he will want to come with me!!

Sunday was going to be a day of clashes and being unable to see certain bands – notably Julia Holter, Whitney and most disappointingly, Warpaint.

The next band we were to see would prove to be our final show of Green Man 2016 and it was my long time favourite band Unknown Mortal Orchestra. What a way to go out and they did not disappoint. These guys know how to put on a show and take their music way beyond a two dimensional record, on which the songs are eternally trapped in their grooves, destined never to physically change. UMO take this notion and tear it up. They really do perform. Tracks are reconfigured. Ffunny Friends becomes some kind of extensive, old time music hall piano work out. Ruban’s vocals are dripped in distortion and he later climbs the scaffold. The drummer has a joyful bash about on his kit. The bass player holds the madness together. It is utterly absorbing, musically brilliant and the whole set is spellbinding. This was my youngest son’s favourite show.

Live music is there to lift you up and raise you beyond what is ‘normal,’ to the point of not being aware of what you are doing, apart from being alive and in that moment. Not being too dramatic, it is almost like an outer body experience. I don’t actually care if I am dad dancing because for that one fleeting moment, I am lost to the music, within the collective group - although the Growlers also help in that respect.

Green Man 2016 was another huge success. Bring on 2017!!

Now for a list:

I have consulted my Euphoria Meter and here are the top 3 readings:

Kamasi Washington:

It would have been higher had it not been for the delay, sound issues and the fact that the guy stood immediately to my right kept screaming ‘Yeeeaaaaahhhhh’ every 30 seconds, like some spaced out jazz beatnik, which he probably was. Leave your ‘Yeahs’ until the end of the track mate!! Kamasi’s set never quite managed to hit the euphoric heights I had been hoping for – although it came very close.

Euphoria Meter Reading – 7/10

Jagwar Ma:

This was a bit of a surprise. I had heard a couple of tracks previously and liked them but have never bought any of their music. As I mention above, their sound is instantly likeable and danceable, taking me straight back to the UK ‘indie dance’ scene of the late 80s/early 90s. Old ravers are high on nostalgia and new ravers don’t know any different. I had a moment of musical euphoria to JM and was roundly mocked by my kids for dodgy dad dancing. Jagawar Ma’s set was my eldest son’s second favourite of Green Man behind Songhoy Blues, which is praise indeed.

Euphoria Meter Reading – 9/10

Unknown Mortal Orchestra:

I can safely say that UMO are one of my all time favourite bands and this was the fourth time I have seen them live. They really push their music well beyond what you hear on record, by elongating songs and playing with effects and musical arrangements. They give a truly engaging performance and the music is sensational. More dodgy dad dancing from me and I really don’t care!!

Euphoria Meter Reading – 10/10

Head Space Daily Image...

Green Man memories...

A double rainbow casts it's glow after Kamasi Washington's set...

Two people carry hoops...

The Saturday morning view from the Hurly Burly...

Head Space Daily Tune...

A selection of Green Man 2016 tracks...


Kamasi Washington - Henrietta Our Hero

Unknown Mortal Orchestra - Ffunny Friends

Jagwar Ma - Man I Need

Head Space Daily Words...

Apart from the fact it would be extremely hot and that Chris Waddle played for the football club in the early 1990s, I knew very little about Marseille. A French friend had recommended the city as a good family holiday destination, so we booked accommodation on Airbnb and on July 24^th away we went. A six and a half hour train journey, direct from Kings Cross to Gare Saint Charles in the centre of Marseille, was followed by a short cab journey to where we were going to be based for the next twelve days, on the Corniche Kennedy.

Our first, exhilarating impression, standing outside the station, looking across the city, with the impressive Notre Dame de La Garde church to our left, was of intense heat, a clear blue sky and the elation of being somewhere new. Our cab driver was a friendly, charming young guy, who talked excitedly about Marseille the city and Olympique de Marseille, the football club, which is always an icebreaker. Taxi drivers represent their cities and this cabbie’s character, with his polite confidence and sense of humour, set the tone.

A city holiday means plenty of exploring and we were situated in the perfect location, right next to the sea and within walking distance of all the major attractions and areas of interest. Besides, with a boulangerie opposite, the daily, morning croissants had to be balanced out by exercise.

With the majority of its dusty houses of white, cream and terracotta, appearing slightly frayed around the edges, Marseille feels well lived in. Whilst the city could possibly do with a facelift here and there, it is defined by centuries of immigration, has a true sense of itself and doesn’t need to paint over the cracks. What you see is what you get. The confident, welcoming and generous spirit of the Marseillais reflects this mentality.

The city is enclosed within a mountain enclave, which kept it isolated from the rest of France for centuries. It is only since 2001 that a tunnel carved through the rock has existed to shorten the train journey to Paris from 10 hours to three and since 2015, Eurostar trains have made the journey to Marseille. In its 2600 years of existence, Marseille has only been an official part of France for the past 600. As the city’s port became a thriving centre for trade, people from countries such as Greece, Italy, Algeria, other North African countries, Spain and Armenia arrived and settled. The diversity of Marseille has evolved and developed over the course of time and it is the most naturally cosmopolitan place I have ever been to. A twelve day holiday only gives you a superficial view but I was extremely impressed by the togetherness of such a diverse population.

Here ends the history lesson!!

From the roof of our accommodation we had a view looking out to sea, on one side towards the modern port of Marseille, where huge ferries bound for Corsica would depart, around to the other where jagged rock formations pointed the way towards Les Calanques. We were treated to an incredible nightly light show, as the sun faded out over distant hills, with a farewell fanfare of vivid pinks, purples and oranges.

A narrow road nearby led to a path, which opened out into a small cove, almost hidden behind the houses, where little boats were neatly tethered up. The slender path of this sanctuary took a sharp right, which opened up the view of the ocean. A great place to sit and pass the time or as I did, have a passionate chat with two young Marseillais guys, with proud Algerian roots, about Aston Villa’s chances of promotion at the first attempt from the Championship. There is serious football fervour and knowledge in Marseille and the love of Olympique de Marseille is enhanced by the fact that Marseille is a one city club. Imagine the undying support Villa or any of the other local teams would have if they were the only club in the Midlands!!

We paid a visit to the Stade Velodrome, which is extremely impressive for a modern stadium, with the stands being very close to the pitch, the intricately designed roof providing unique character and you got the sense from being there, that genuine atmosphere could be generated.

From one of Marseille’s newest structures, to it’s oldest residential area, Le Panier. This is where in days gone by, the poor, the needy, the hopeless and the hookers were left to fend for themselves. A large part of the area was blown up by the Nazis during the second World War but what survives of the narrow streets and its shuttered houses, with washing hanging on lines rigged high above the ground, maintains the ramshackle look and feel of the old town. As well as continuing to be a thriving residential area, artists’ studios, bars and cosy restaurants give the Panier a romantic sense of bohemia.

A modern creative area, living in the here and now rather than its past and one for today’s youth of Marseille, is Le Cours Julien. Steps leading from a main road called Cours Lieutaud, graffiti decorating the walls on either side, lead to Cours Julien, itself a street which runs around the outside of a large, open meeting place. Bars, cafes and shops line the Cours Julien, as other streets entice you away from the central area. On one of these streets, Rue Des Trois Rois, is the wonderful ice cream shop L’Elephant Rose as well as the excellent La Galette record shop, from where I picked up The Friends Of Distinction album, Real Friends, a soul album from 1970 (see HSD Tune.) As with the vast area of Marseille that we discovered, Le Cours Julien district has a slightly dilapidated sense of survival and progression.

It is only when you go over to the new port area that you come across soulless modern food courts, and a large indoor shopping centre. Marseille though has soul in abundance, so these areas can be avoided unless you fancy a spot of Blue Water or Meadowhall by the sea.

As I mentioned, our accommodation was in the ideal location to journey across Marseille and we walked, via Endoume, to the spectacular, if somewhat OTT Notre Dame de La Garde church, which looks over the city and can be seen from almost anywhere in Marseille. The number 83 bus runs from Le Prado, close to Stade Velodrome, to the Vieux Port which was our way of getting to the art museum Le MuCEM, where there was a fascinating Picasso exhibition and a terrific view out to sea through the gaps in the walls of the terrasse, which resembled a camouflage drape hanging over the building.

What impressed me most of all, were the people of Marseille. Around the town and on the beaches there was a wonderfully diverse, cosmopolitan mix of ethnic backgrounds, colours and faith; all living together, hanging out and sharing experiences in what felt a completely natural existence. When your immigration and integration has been evolving over 2600 years, the process of social and religious cohesion works with greater harmony. Obviously, nowhere is perfect and I was only in Marseille for twelve days but I would hazard a guess that when issues do arise, they are sorted out in an amicable and progressive manner.

Our final evening was spent at a terrific restaurant down the road called Chez Jeannot – great food, service and location. The next day we returned to Gare Saint Charles, where the presence of several soldiers carrying machine guns, reminded us of the troubles that France has had to endure in recent times. I would hope that the people of Marseille will stay strong and believe in who they are, should they ever have to face an attack on their spirit, dignity and beliefs.

One day I hope to return to Marseille, to be part of the city again and take in a football match at the Stade Velodrome. Marseille v Aston Villa in the Champions League? Maybe not but you have to dream...

Head Space Daily Image...

Three photos to show off a little bit of Marseille...

This is Plage De La Prophete...

The narrow streets of Le Panier...

And one of the incredible sunsets from the roof of our accomodation...

Head Space Daily Tune...

Here is the opening track from The Friends Of Distinction album which I picked up at Galette Records on Rue des Trois Rois off Cours Julien, in Marseille...

The Friends Of Distinction - Love Me Or Let Me Be Lonely