Head Space Daily Words...

Apart from the fact it would be extremely hot and that Chris Waddle played for the football club in the early 1990s, I knew very little about Marseille. A French friend had recommended the city as a good family holiday destination, so we booked accommodation on Airbnb and on July 24^th away we went. A six and a half hour train journey, direct from Kings Cross to Gare Saint Charles in the centre of Marseille, was followed by a short cab journey to where we were going to be based for the next twelve days, on the Corniche Kennedy.

Our first, exhilarating impression, standing outside the station, looking across the city, with the impressive Notre Dame de La Garde church to our left, was of intense heat, a clear blue sky and the elation of being somewhere new. Our cab driver was a friendly, charming young guy, who talked excitedly about Marseille the city and Olympique de Marseille, the football club, which is always an icebreaker. Taxi drivers represent their cities and this cabbie’s character, with his polite confidence and sense of humour, set the tone.

A city holiday means plenty of exploring and we were situated in the perfect location, right next to the sea and within walking distance of all the major attractions and areas of interest. Besides, with a boulangerie opposite, the daily, morning croissants had to be balanced out by exercise.

With the majority of its dusty houses of white, cream and terracotta, appearing slightly frayed around the edges, Marseille feels well lived in. Whilst the city could possibly do with a facelift here and there, it is defined by centuries of immigration, has a true sense of itself and doesn’t need to paint over the cracks. What you see is what you get. The confident, welcoming and generous spirit of the Marseillais reflects this mentality.

The city is enclosed within a mountain enclave, which kept it isolated from the rest of France for centuries. It is only since 2001 that a tunnel carved through the rock has existed to shorten the train journey to Paris from 10 hours to three and since 2015, Eurostar trains have made the journey to Marseille. In its 2600 years of existence, Marseille has only been an official part of France for the past 600. As the city’s port became a thriving centre for trade, people from countries such as Greece, Italy, Algeria, other North African countries, Spain and Armenia arrived and settled. The diversity of Marseille has evolved and developed over the course of time and it is the most naturally cosmopolitan place I have ever been to. A twelve day holiday only gives you a superficial view but I was extremely impressed by the togetherness of such a diverse population.

Here ends the history lesson!!

From the roof of our accommodation we had a view looking out to sea, on one side towards the modern port of Marseille, where huge ferries bound for Corsica would depart, around to the other where jagged rock formations pointed the way towards Les Calanques. We were treated to an incredible nightly light show, as the sun faded out over distant hills, with a farewell fanfare of vivid pinks, purples and oranges.

A narrow road nearby led to a path, which opened out into a small cove, almost hidden behind the houses, where little boats were neatly tethered up. The slender path of this sanctuary took a sharp right, which opened up the view of the ocean. A great place to sit and pass the time or as I did, have a passionate chat with two young Marseillais guys, with proud Algerian roots, about Aston Villa’s chances of promotion at the first attempt from the Championship. There is serious football fervour and knowledge in Marseille and the love of Olympique de Marseille is enhanced by the fact that Marseille is a one city club. Imagine the undying support Villa or any of the other local teams would have if they were the only club in the Midlands!!

We paid a visit to the Stade Velodrome, which is extremely impressive for a modern stadium, with the stands being very close to the pitch, the intricately designed roof providing unique character and you got the sense from being there, that genuine atmosphere could be generated.

From one of Marseille’s newest structures, to it’s oldest residential area, Le Panier. This is where in days gone by, the poor, the needy, the hopeless and the hookers were left to fend for themselves. A large part of the area was blown up by the Nazis during the second World War but what survives of the narrow streets and its shuttered houses, with washing hanging on lines rigged high above the ground, maintains the ramshackle look and feel of the old town. As well as continuing to be a thriving residential area, artists’ studios, bars and cosy restaurants give the Panier a romantic sense of bohemia.

A modern creative area, living in the here and now rather than its past and one for today’s youth of Marseille, is Le Cours Julien. Steps leading from a main road called Cours Lieutaud, graffiti decorating the walls on either side, lead to Cours Julien, itself a street which runs around the outside of a large, open meeting place. Bars, cafes and shops line the Cours Julien, as other streets entice you away from the central area. On one of these streets, Rue Des Trois Rois, is the wonderful ice cream shop L’Elephant Rose as well as the excellent La Galette record shop, from where I picked up The Friends Of Distinction album, Real Friends, a soul album from 1970 (see HSD Tune.) As with the vast area of Marseille that we discovered, Le Cours Julien district has a slightly dilapidated sense of survival and progression.

It is only when you go over to the new port area that you come across soulless modern food courts, and a large indoor shopping centre. Marseille though has soul in abundance, so these areas can be avoided unless you fancy a spot of Blue Water or Meadowhall by the sea.

As I mentioned, our accommodation was in the ideal location to journey across Marseille and we walked, via Endoume, to the spectacular, if somewhat OTT Notre Dame de La Garde church, which looks over the city and can be seen from almost anywhere in Marseille. The number 83 bus runs from Le Prado, close to Stade Velodrome, to the Vieux Port which was our way of getting to the art museum Le MuCEM, where there was a fascinating Picasso exhibition and a terrific view out to sea through the gaps in the walls of the terrasse, which resembled a camouflage drape hanging over the building.

What impressed me most of all, were the people of Marseille. Around the town and on the beaches there was a wonderfully diverse, cosmopolitan mix of ethnic backgrounds, colours and faith; all living together, hanging out and sharing experiences in what felt a completely natural existence. When your immigration and integration has been evolving over 2600 years, the process of social and religious cohesion works with greater harmony. Obviously, nowhere is perfect and I was only in Marseille for twelve days but I would hazard a guess that when issues do arise, they are sorted out in an amicable and progressive manner.

Our final evening was spent at a terrific restaurant down the road called Chez Jeannot – great food, service and location. The next day we returned to Gare Saint Charles, where the presence of several soldiers carrying machine guns, reminded us of the troubles that France has had to endure in recent times. I would hope that the people of Marseille will stay strong and believe in who they are, should they ever have to face an attack on their spirit, dignity and beliefs.

One day I hope to return to Marseille, to be part of the city again and take in a football match at the Stade Velodrome. Marseille v Aston Villa in the Champions League? Maybe not but you have to dream...