As the
London Overground train, pulled out of Brockley station on Tuesday morning, Elevator Operator by Courtney Barnett – the first track on
her album Sometimes I Sit And Think And
Sometimes I Just Sit - blared from my earphones, filling my head with
memories of the final performance I saw at the Green Man Festival.
During a
visit from our Bristol friends in April, my wife and her mate got chatting over
a bottle of wine about meeting up in the summer, places to go and things to do.
Green Man came up in the conversation, it seemed family friendly, there were
some very good acts lined up, the location appeared impressive and it is not
ridiculously big like Glasto. Sold. Before we knew it, we were booked in and
three other families signed up for the adventure as well.
With no
summer break happening this year, Green Man was going to be our family holiday
and we were determined to make the most of it. Last year, on our usual camping
trip to France, our car broke down and couldn’t be trusted to make the journey
again. Our tent had also begun to spring more leaks (sic) than a Welsh farmer’s
field. It was on its way out and would not survive another two week family
holiday. As I mentioned in my previous post, this was to be my first festival,
having been a clubber in my younger days but was now willing to throw myself
in, embrace the portaloos and join the great unwashed, for four days of
celebrating music.
We met
everyone in Bristol at lunchtime on Thursday and drove in convoy to Crickhowell
in Wales, where the festival is held, driving over some narrow country roads,
avoiding sheep along the way, whilst listening to Matthew E White, Wiliam
Onyeabor, and Courtney Barnett, with some Unknown Mortal Orchestra thrown in
for good measure.
Arriving
at Green Man was a real buzz, until it dawned just how far we would have to
haul our luggage and tent from car to pitch and how many journeys it would
take. Two hours and twenty minutes later and with legs like tree trunks, our
temporary home was established.
Thursday
was about getting set and finding our bearings. The kids quickly realised that
this could be a cracking weekend, with freedom to roam, stalls selling tasty
food (and sweets,) a fairground big wheel and plenty to discover and explore.
Leftfield were headlining on Thursday in the Far Out tent, which isn’t really my thing, although the casualty
outside the venue, with his big fish-little fish dance routine, caused the kids
to ask a few questions. The thought was, roll on Friday.
I had
earmarked the acts I wanted to see and any others that could be squeezed in
would be a bonus. The two on Friday’s list were Natalie Prass and The Music
Of William Onyeabor, who were both playing the Mountain Stage – a large
outdoor Amphitheatre. As it turned out, the day’s entertainment started with Sweet Baboo, who were sweet indeed,
before Natalie Prass, who is signed to Matthew
E White’s label, Spacebomb took
the stage. My word, she is an all round bona fide star. She has the look, a cool
Richmond (Virginia) drawl, massive red plastic shades, with a voice to take
your breath away. For most of the day, there had been a light drizzle but the
rain stopped for Natalie Prass’s show and mid set, the sun came bursting
through, which was a truly memorable moment. I only knew two of her tunes, so
to hear the full range over the course of an hour, was a real pleasure. Tickets
have been bought for me and the missus to see Natalie Prass play Koko in
November.
Natalie Prass summons the sunshine...
Next up
was a real revelation. I’ve always had a soft spot for Sun Ra and their ‘cosmic jazz.’ I use the title of one of his
tracks, Space Is The Place, as a
mantra for the kids’ football team that I manage. Sun Ra himself left this
planet for the outerspaceways in 1993 and is now orbiting Saturn. As the
current band leader of the Sun Ra
Arkestra informed us, he would have been 101 years old this year. The
Arkestra, led by 91-year-old saxophonist Marshall Allen, is a jazz band with
many members - there were at least eight musicians on stage – and was also appearing
at Far Out, which is
undercover, dark and intimate, having the appearance of a vast circus tent. At
one point, Marshall played a contraption that produced some fantastical high
pitched bursts of noise, whilst the vocal front man who was wearing a Pharaoh
style headdress and was no spring chicken himself, began turning cart wheels.
The music was superb.
The
revelation is that I went with my eldest son who, as I mentioned in my previous
post, had reservations about Green Man but he was blown away by Sun Ra Arkestra
and the experience of a live gig. His eyes gave away his excitement, shining in
the darkness. Imagine your first serious musical experience at thirteen years
of age, being the sounds of Sun Ra.
My
youngest son’s first real taste of live musical excitement came later on that
evening with The Music Of William
Onyeabor led by Alexis Taylor, the
front man of Hot Chip, who were
themselves due to play the Mountain Stage as that night’s headline act. Whilst
loving William Onyeabor, my youngest son’s musical revelation was still to
come.
Saturday
began with glorious sunshine and hanging out around the festival space, getting
our phones charged up by bike powered electricity and making the most of what
was on offer, before heading over to Far
Out once again, this time to see Songhoy Blues,
from Mali. There was palpable anticipation in the crowd, then the heavens
opened and torrential rain tumbled down, as the Songhoy set grew from low key
to stirring Afro rock. My eldest son was blown away once more, “it was even
better than Sun Ra,” he declared, before defiantly stating that he was going to
buy the album. If Natalie Prass was the coolest solo performer on show, Songhoy
Blues were the coolest band. With energy to burn, they looked the part, sounded
the part and loved being on stage.
The weather closes in at Green Man...
Charles Bradley is a big favourite of mine and was appearing
on the Mountain Stage to spread the
love in a way that only he can – direct from his soul. The rain paused for
Charles and a mid show costume change saw him looking like he may be able to
sign up for Sun Ra and a one-way ticket to Saturn.
My drink
of choice at Green Man was Growler Ale
and with a fresh pint in my hand, we headed back to Far Out to see The Fall,
a band led by a slightly less energetic man in Mark E Smith. The Fall’s music
was brilliant – a true Manchester sound, bass heavy and urgent. Mark E Smith’s
face contorted like a prize gurner under the influence and his words were
indecipherable but he maintained a twisted, dominant presence, as he appeared
to try and disturb his keyboard player and guitarist by interfering with their
instruments. I imagine they are used to it. Watching The Fall was an
interesting experience.
We left Far Out and walked around the outside of
the Mountain Stage, where Super Furry Animals were starting their
set which was being greeted by more rain. The place was rammed, Welsh heroes
reunited and performing on home turf. Having never been into Super Furries and with a deluge
underway, we continued back to base, to catch up with our mates. This time
there would be no let up. The water was relentless.
Next
morning, water was dripping in from numerous weak points in the tent roof, as
the floor resembled a paddling pool. With breakfast eaten, we packed up and
wheeled our luggage back to the car, which left us free to enjoy the rest of
the day. The mud was becoming a dominant feature - but no festival is complete
without mud - and my wellies were proving to be an essential purchase. With the
rain showing no sign of stopping, people were starting to call it a day. Not us
though.
Wellies. Mud...
Matthew E White was first on Sunday’s list and one of the
two acts I had been most looking forward to seeing. He was sound checking with
his band on the Mountain Stage,
immediately before he was due to perform. I don’t know if this was due to the
weather causing problems, or if he was just running late but his levels weren’t
quite right when his show got under way and during sections when his voice
needed to be quieter, he was drowned out by the music. This was a pity but it
was still a real buzz to see him perform and the experience will be better when
he is next on tour.
As
Matthew E White was playing, the sun suddenly showed it’s face, in exactly the
same way it had during his label mate, Natalie Prass’s performance on Friday.
It must be the Spacebomb Records
effect and the sun didn’t merely come out – it was blazing!! We had gone from a
festival ending deluge, to glorious sunshine.
Everyone
in our Green Man posse headed up to Far
Out once more, where Sylvan Esso
– who were extremely good – were playing, followed by Public Service Broadcasting, who appeared to have a strong and
loyal crowd. Then came the main event and the second of my top two most wanted
– Courtney Barnett. This was also to be my youngest son’s musical revelation.
Courtney was the only act he had talked about seeing – and there she was, on
stage in front of his very eyes. The four of us – myself, my wife and my two
boys took up a central position in the packed crowd, with my eldest feeling the
pull to get to the front, edging ever closer to the stage.
The Far Out tent with Sylvan Esso on screen...
Melbourne’s
finest didn’t disappoint. She is raucous, intelligent, funny, has a message and
a way with words that makes the humdrum vital. Despite the languid, slacker
demeanour, she is determined, as sharp as a Samurai’s sword and can play the
guitar lying down. The set started with Elevator
Operator, finished with Pedestrian At
Best, the in between was incredible, the sound intense, the atmosphere
electric and we witnessed it as a family. What more could you ask for to round
off a cracking festival. Courtney Barnett’s show at The Forum in November is one I am eagerly looking forward to.
We left
straight after Courtney’s gig, against the backdrop of St.Vincent’s show which was closing the Festival. Our car got stuck
in the mud and required help from stewards to get it moving, then, just over
three hours later, we were back home in South East London. We left our tent
behind, full of puddles, as a sacrificial offering to the spirit of Green Man.
It has seen us through many good camping trips and went out on a high.
On that
Tuesday mornings commute, I arrived at London Bridge to find the Jubilee Line
had been suspended. As I was herded along with the rush hour flock, I thought
of Oliver Paul, Courtney Barnett’s character in Elevator Operator, who one day skips work to build “pyramids out of
coke cans.” I could just picture myself adding the final can to the top of the
pyramid at next year’s Green Man...
