We went to Cornwall for the first time as a family several years ago, when the kids were younger - and it was horrendous. The first week of August, when you think there may be a chance of decent weather was cold and it rained constantly. For some reason we thought a week in a teepee would be a good idea. How wrong could you be? There was no space inside, the rain leaked in through the hole created in the roof, where the poles joined and the walls were lined with slugs. A children's back garden wigwam would have been more use. The other downside is that when it is raining and you have children to entertain, there is bugger all to do in Cornwall. As we drove across the desolation of Bodmin moor, those memories of the first time came flooding back. There wasn't the sense of returning to to an old friend which you get when you go back to a much loved holiday destination. This time we were stopping in a 'compact,' converted farm building, which was literally in the middle of nowhere. When you looked out from the field behind our barn, all you could see for miles, were more fields and moorland. The colour palette had entirely changed from London. Shades of green and brown met the blue sky and white clouds. Once my city dwelling mind had adjusted to the fact that there wasn't a local shop two minutes walk away, it was fine. As it turned out our accommodation was the perfect base, as the weather was glorious and we were out and about all the time. In April, as far as the weather is concerned, you go away with no expectations, thinking that any dry day is a bonus and if the sun is shining, even better. We got lucky. Each day was spent on a different windswept, sun drenched, rugged beach or two, taking in some lethargic Cornish towns, or visiting interesting places. It may have been sunny but it wasn't especially warm, which tricked me into not putting on sun cream on day one and ending up with a sun burnt nose, which is currently peeling. The stark contrast of people on Great British beaches and their reactions to the weather conditions was in evidence, with some wrapped up against the elements, such as myself and my missus in our winter coats and scarves, whilst others treated it like they were on the Costa Del Sol at the height of summer, my kids were in their trunks, playing in the sea. Kids seem immune to the cold. The beaches were impressive, particularly Sennen and St.Ives, the fish and chips from 'The Top Chippy' in Porthleven were sensational, the Barbara Hepworth museum and sculpture garden is a must see and St.Michael's Mount is a thoroughly enjoyable experience. I'm not one for period drama but I started watching the opening episode of Jamaica Inn on BBC1 the other day, which is set in Cornwall. The word bleak doesn't even come close. My view of Cornwall though is no longer bleak and slug infested but positive and I see it as a place to explore. No period drama is going to change that view...
The sun sets over Porthleven...
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